Día 121 | Jueves, 30 de Abril | 2009

Fricatas...

Another early morning yet again.  Today we toured Isla de Corazón, one of the only remaining mangroves in Bahía de Caráquez.  Not specifically knowing what a mangrove was, I looked it up in the dictionary and it is apparently:

a tree or shrub that grows in muddy, chiefly tropical coastal swamps that are inundated at high tide.  Mangroves typically have numerous roots above ground and form dense thickets.

Our tour started at around 9:00AM and lasted until about two.  We traveled through the mangrove by canoe and then later we walked on planks that were about ten feet above the swamp.  The picture above is of all the frigate birds that live in the swamp.  Frigate birds are mostly scavengers, I think, and during this time of year they are in mating season. 

The best part of the tour for me was when we did this little exercise to see who could potentially plant a mangrove tree.  We took mangrove seeds (the looked like a cross between a carrot and an asparagus shoot) and dropped them off of the 10-foot high balcony.  It was somewhat unlikely for our seeds to stick in the mud at a 90-degree angle, but that was pretty much the only way for the seed to potentially grow in to a tree (a mangrove tree will typically grow in about forty five days).  Anyway, all of us dropped our seeds down to the swamp below but my seed was the only one out of our group to land at a 90-degree angle in the mud. So in about forty five days, it is very likely that there will be a mangrove tree grown in the spot where I planted my seed.

Día 120 | Miércoles, 29 de Abril | 2009

Miguelito...

Woke up at 4:45 this morning to go see the sunrise on the beach.  Ryan and I hit the beach at about 5:10 or so.  I got some good recordings of the ocean waves when we first walked out but then, to our surprise, Shawn snuck up behind and scared the hell out of us.  I have a recording of Ryan's reaction to Shawn scaring us and it is all really funny.

 Anyway, we walked down on the beach for the next hour or so and the sun came up behind us over the mountains.  There was pretty good cloud coverage so we weren't able to see the sun come up very clearly but still it was really beautiful.  Later, we made our way down to the port where the fishermen come in each morning.  Ryan, Shawn, and I could feel a rush of energy by this spectacle – there were probably about 150 people (most of the people in the town) all around the boats coming in with fish – but we could also feel the awkwardness of being obvious foreigners in a small fishing town.  We got a lot of good pictures here and I briefly talked to a guy about the surrounding area and what was going on. 

We had to be up early though also because we had to hit the road early.  Our next stop was Canoa but before we went to our hostel, we took a tour of the city of Bahía.  Bahía is a fairly good-sized town (I am guessing a population of about 30,000) right on the coast and the Bay of Caráquez.  Back in 1998 in the onset of El Niño (remember that?) and with the effects of a devastating earthquake, a lot of things changed drastically in terms of the infrastructure of the town.  There were many adjustments made to the city's transportation and energy systems – now hardly anyone uses cars or machines with internal combustion engines and there are a lot of alternative energy sources being used/tested (wind and solar for example).  In the afternoon, we toured a paper recycling facility (the first paper recycling plant in Ecuador) and we learned the process of how recycled paper is made.

Afterwards, we stopped by an elementary school to see another amazing site – Miguelito, the 100-year-old Galapogos Island tortoise (pictured above).  Miguelito was born approximately in 1909 but no one quite knows how he arrived in Bahía.  I am not sure if this picture does too much justice but this turtle is massive – about five hundred pounds in weight!  When we first rounded the corner to see Miguelito it seemed to me that he was a dinosaur instead of a turtle.  Something about the way he moved hit my perception from a very strange angle – I was truly enthralled by the sight of this magnificent animal.  We all had a fun time hanging out with Miguelito for about a half hour, feeding him bananas, touching his hard shell, and petting his leathery skin.

Later, we went to our hostel and then into the town of Canoa for dinner.  After dinner, we played a little bit of billiards and then we walked down the dark beach back to our hostel.  It was really strange walking on the beach at night – absolutely horrifying actually.  Typically scared by the ocean even in the daylight, the nighttime amplified my fears just by the mere sight of a huge, dark, and merciless sea.

Día 119 | Martes, 28 de Abril | 2009

Hostería Mandála...

Today we spent about five hours or so in the bus traveling from Guayaquil to a little fishing village called Puerto Lopez.  The ride was extremely humid, hot, and uncomfortable.  The vehicle that we ride in is a pretty spacious twenty passenger van but when we put all of our luggage in there things get a little cramped.  With the relentless sun and the thick coastal air streaming through the windows, it is easy to feel physically agitated on our trips.  In addition, being cramped inside of a vehicle with the same people you see pretty much every hour of every day can make for mild psychosis.  Another observation, too, is that transportation in Ecuador is wildly different than it is in the United States.  When traveling across the country, a vehicle can maybe attain an average speed of about 35 miles per hour.  Rarely do the vehicle break 50 let alone 60 miles per hour.  This can be attributed to Ecuador's poor road conditions, swerving mountain passes, and constant road construction.  Whenever construction workers are repairing or modifying a road here, they shut down a lane completely and sometimes we must wait at a standstill for about thirty minutes just to be waved on by the flagger.  Really different than in the U.S.

Anyway, we arrived in Puerto Lopez and I felt as if we had entered into Heaven.  The landscape (like in the picture above) was so beautiful.  The place that we are staying is pretty incredible too – it's called Hostería Mandála – and there are probably about 20 or so bungalows in which we are staying.  All of the habitations are situated in a very lush and very beautiful garden – there are hundreds (maybe thousands) of flowers everywhere, all sorts of bushes, and a wide variety of trees.  The whole feeling feels like we are staying in the jungle – in our rooms we wear mosquito nets while we sleep.  I have been taking my malaria pills anyway but the mosquito nets come in good handy to make sure I am not eaten alive.  Anyway, the place here has almost any accommodation imaginable – all sorts of board games, books, musical instruments, and art supplies for guests to use during their stay.  The Hostería is also located on the beach, literally a thirty second walk to the waves.  When we got here today, our group had the afternoon off so we just decided to relax by swimming, playing beach soccer, ultimate Frisbee, and just laying around.

Today was a really great day.

Día 118 | Lunes, 27 de Abril | 2009

Bananas...

Woke up today at about five and did some exercises.  I really want to get back into good shape again and I think I am going to dedicate more time to exercising a little each day to try to build some kind of a base.  Avoiding sugars and fats will also be a part of my future habits too.

We left CEDEI at about 6:45 toward Guayaquil.  Guayaquil is Ecuador's largest city and it is situated in the southwestern part of the country.  There are roughly 2 million people (although it is getting closer to 3) that live there and the city is a pretty successful port town -- exports cocoa, bananas, textiles, and rice.  Also, it is worth mentioning that Guayaquil is one of the more dangerous parts of Ecuador in term of theft and other petty crime.  Not to worry though because we are staying in a pretty safe hotel -- it seems like it's unnecessarily nice for college students to stay in if I do say so but -- no complaining from me!

The bus ride was not too bad.  I would have preferred silence on the way there but, being that I must adapt to my surroundings, I was able to comfortably wear earplugs and read sixty or so pages of the book Savages by Joe Kane.  So far it is a really interesting read.  The book discusses the author's role in the petroleum conflict between the American petroleum company DuPont and the Huaorani Indians.  The Huaorani indians are Ecuadorian natives whose very ways of life are being maimed by the profiteering of companies like DuPont.  I'm not too far into the book and it is getting more and more interesting with every page.  

On our way to Guayaquil, we stopped for a couple hours to tour a banana and cocoa plantation.  I had never realized exactly how chocolate had been made until we visited this plantation today -- we saw the cocoa plant and got to taste its fruit.  It was strange to taste it.  It tasted more like a fruit chew than it tasted like chocolate.  Later, though, we learned that chocolate was made by cooking the cocoa fruit seeds and then combining them with the fermentation of the cocoa plant's flesh.  We didn't see the process itself but listening to our guide explain it was really interesting.  Later on, our guide showed us how bananas are grown, cleaned, and harvested.  The picture above is of a bunch of bananas that didn't make the cut.  The destiny of these bananas will be to be fed to the pigs at the hacienda.  The pigs or the cows.  Either way, it was pretty weird to see a giant pile of bananas strewn about the place.

We finally got to Guayaquil around 2:30.  The bus ride was really hot and sticky so when we got to the hotel, everybody was able to refresh themselves by jumping in the pool.  Later, we took a walking city tour that outlined a lot of the general history of Guayaquil and also showed us some of the interesting sights around the city.  One of the more interesting things I saw on the tour, let alone our whole trip in Ecuador, was a city park that had all sorts of wildlife in it.  It was highly unusual to see about 40-50 pretty large iguanas just roaming around a city park.  I wish I would have brought my camera to show a picture of this but I left it in my hotel room.  The iguanas are mostly harmless and they just walk around in the park's sidewalks, hang out in the park's bushes, or climb in the park's trees.  

Día 117 | Domingo, 26 de Abril | 2009

flores...

My family invited me to go with them for a hike in the country yesterday.  I accepted the invitation, thinking that we would go in the afternoon.  I figured that I would have ample time to finish my papers before we would go on a hike...but it turned out that I had misinterpreted the conversation and my family was ready to leave the house at 9:00AM.  I felt really bad, apologized, and then told them that I had to stay home to work on papers...

I wish that I didn't have to work on homework but that was the way it had to be.  There wasn't really anything else going on today other than Ecuador was having its general and presidential elections.  I hope that Marcelo Cabrerra won (the current mayor of Cuenca of whom I had had met at the beginning of April) but we'll see.

Día 116 | Sábado, 25 de Abril | 2009

Jardín...

It's been another lazy Saturday in which I was not able to get anything done.  Today I had just sat around most of the time playing guitar and writing melodies.  I noticed today that I have written about thirty songs this year.  Out of these thirty or so songs, I haven't written any lyrics.  I have a lot of ideas about the songs but nothing seems to serve the songs.  I am glad that my host family has supplied me a guitar that I can play while I am here...it has made me realize that music is something that I cannot walk away from.  Depending on when I decide to write, maybe I'll play some shows sometime soon after all.  

The day wasn't totally spent in vain.  I got some progress done on planning out my analysis for a short story I am reading called El arrepentido.  The story is only about 200 lines and is about an old man named Tomeu and his nephew Ruti.  Tomeu is the owner of a cheap coffee shop near the beach but feels great regret about his past.  The truth is that Tomeu has made all of his money in illegal contraband negotiations -- a regret so strong that it leads him to commit suicide by the end of the story.  There are a lot of other levels to the story, though.  Ruti, the nephew of Tomeu has corrupt motivations when it comes to inheriting Tomeu's dirty money.  Ruti wants the money so bad that he lies to Tomeu by telling his uncle that he only has 1 month to live (Ruti is a doctor).  By telling him this, Ruti knows that Tomeu wouldn't be able to stand to live knowing he only had limited time to live, he would then commit suicide, and then Ruti would be able to inherit Tomeu's fortune.  Ruti's plan goes awry by the end, though, because of Tomeu's tremendous guilt about his corrupt past, Tomeu decides to leave all of his money to children at a homeless shelter.

It is a long short story.

Thanks for reading everyone.  Especially, thank you Michael for keeping up with me.  I hope everything is going well for you and Becca!  Tell Becca I say hello sometime.  We will have to get together sometime soon.  I hope your trip to Colombia goes well too.  When do you go?  What part of Colombia are you going to?  I'd love to hear more about it.

Día 115 | Viernes, 24 de Abril | 2009

Mural!..

Today we finished our volunteer service project and it turned out great.  All of the elementary-aged schoolgirls did most of the painting.  It was a really enjoyable experience.

I do not have a whole lot of energy right now -- I am just so relieved to be done with school for the next week.  It is going to be great -- beaches, mangroves, banana plantations, eco-farms, and beyond.

I am excited.

Día 114 | Jueves, 23 de Abril | 2009

Gates...

Today's test in South American Literature class was not too bad.  It was pretty much everything that I expected it to be.  It seems that the key to the class is just to be sure to read all of the material and apply yourself to the questions about the text.  I didn't spend a whole lot of time studying for the test but I feel like I did well enough just from reading everything and doing the corresponding work.  

Today will be pretty good I think.  Later, we will finish our volunteer service project by painting a mural with a group of elementary school students.  I still have green paint on my hands from painting doors yesterday.  

Later tonight I will go to a poetry / music event that one of the CEDEI professors is putting on.  His name is Marco and he is the same guy that let me travel with him and his band a couple weeks ago to Sigsig.  I'm looking forward to tonight's event...I'm not sure what to expect but It think it should be pretty cool.

I wish I was in Athens today to be with Caitlin.  I love you baby.  Happy anniversary :)

later:  Turns out we didn't do the volunteer service today; we will do it tomorrow instead.  Tonight I am going to try and get a lot of stuff done, even if it means staying up late and getting up early

Día 113 | Miércoles, 22 de Abril | 2009



So tired. Not much to say right now. I will have to upload the picture tomorrow because my camera is in the locker here at CEDEI and my locker keys are at home.

I have been feeling really lethargic lately and I think it is on account of being sick and also just being out of shape.

This post is really boring.

later:  here is a picture of Nick and Emily acting sassy

Día 112 | Martes, 21 de Abril | 2009

April Showers...

I have a lot of work to do today.  Tomorrow is a grammar midterm that is important in terms of the grade for the course.  Thursday is my midterm for my South American Literature class.  Also, I should finish a draft of an essay for my South American Lit. class by tomorrow (to finally turn in by Friday).  On top of that, I need to write three short 1-2 page essays about some of my experiences on the trip.  

Tomorrow and Thursday will probably be the hardest days but all should be cleared up on Friday.  I'll just be really tired and then I'll need to start really making some progress in some of the books I need to read in the next week.  

There's always something to do down here -- always on the move.

I feel so bad because I am really behind on e-mails.  If you are reading this Rob, I will e-mail you in the next couple of days I promise.  On friday, I think I will get to writing some e-mails and hopefully send out some postcards too.

Picture later...

later:  Had pizza at Roma's Pizzeria.  Very good and reasonably priced.  Here's a picture of a flower in our courtyard.  

Día 111 | Lunes, 20 de Abril | 2009

Servicio Voluntario...

Todays has been another rainy one.  Turns out the climate down here is considerably cold and wet.  In the last week it has been sunny maybe once or twice.  My family said that this is pretty typical of April although it is usually a little less wet.  May will not be as wet but it will still be chilly.  Usually I wear a jacket or a couple layers of shirts walking to school -- just to dispel any assumptions that it is always sunny down here.  Today we had classes -- one exam in Andean Literature and then a pretty long Grammar class that was not very fun at all.  After classes we went to this elementary school here in Cuenca for some volunteer work.  Today we sanded down some of the walls and prepped them with primer so we can paint them the rest of the week.  If I wasn't feeling a little ill, I would be more excited about this project.

I have been feeling sick recently (feeling tired and having a sore throat) and it's just really bad timing right now.  This week I have a lot of work to do -- two exams and about four papers.  Good news is that we have next week off.   We'll just be traveling down to the coast to basically sight-see and relax.  That will be nice...

Today was a little disappointing because I found out that I wasn't awarded the Student Enhancement Award that I had applied for back in February.  I had applied for a considerable amount of money in order to conduct a research project about ambient noise and indigenous music of Ecuador.  I am not sure what the specific committee comments were (I'm waiting on an e-mail to find out why my proposal was not funded) but I think that I'm okay with the result in general.  Given the fact that I had found out about the grant a week before its due date, I am impressed and proud that I was even able to finish an acceptable application in that short amount of time.  I had stayed up working on the proposal for about 32 hours straight the day and night before it was due -- resulting in me being able to produce about 20 pages of proposal-worthy material.  

Even though I didn't get any funding, that still doesn't mean anything really in terms of my ability to still carry on my research.  All that it means now is that I will have to eat the money that I have already spent for my recorder and accessories.  Oh well...  the research has been going a little slow lately on account of being so busy with Spanish classes but maybe this is a good thing for me to kick in gear and get more work done.  I still intend to do what I had set out to do, regardless of being financially sponsored by the University.

In other news, it is my big brother Dustin's birthday today.  He is 27.  I wish I could be around to give him a hug.  I miss you brother.

Día 110 | Domingo, 19 de Abril | 2009

Cajas National Park...

Today was full of activity.  Got up early as usual (about 5:45) to shower, dressed, get packed, and meet up with my group to go hiking at Cajas National Park.  Cajas is a giant park that has some of the strangest vegetation I have ever seen in my life.  The whole place is like a giant sponge;  the grass is very bouncy and it absorbs water to send it through underground rivers that connect from lagoon to lagoon.  It turns out that Cajas supplies something like 95 percent of the water for Cuenca and surrounding areas.  The water there was strangely fresh and abundant.  

The hike was about 3-4 hours and we only traveled about 7 miles or so if I had to guess.  We stopped pretty frequently to listen to our tour guide Adrían (who was probably the nicest guy I have met thus far on our trip) and also we stopped to eat lunch in a cave in the middle of the forest (bosque) in Cajas.  The bosque (forest) was one of the weirdest places I have ever seen.  Suddenly, all of our surroundings transformed into this weird foggy ecosystem that resembled that planet where Yoda from Star Wars lives.  The place was really unreal, especially in the rain as the fog was lifting out of everywhere.  Another really strange thing to experience was seeing random Incan ruins scattered about during out hiking route.  We would be walking by a stream and then suddenly see Incan stones.  Really put things into perspective.

By the time I had gotten home, I was physically exhausted, cold and wet.  Today though it was my eldest host-sister Johanna's birthday (she turned 30 years old!).  A lot of my extended-host family was there and we spent a lot of time together.  I probably got home at around 4:00PM and I wasn't able to get to my homework until about 10:00PM.  When I had gotten home from Cajas, I played Johanna a song that I had written for her that went like this:

Feliz cumpleaños Johanna
Feliz cumpleaños a ti
Sobre el próximo año
Espero que seas feliz

(Happy Birthday Johanna
Happy Birthday to you
Over the next year
I hope that you be very happy)

The lyrics are pretty basic.  I guess the melody adds a lot to the otherwise stale lyrics.  I think that my sister really liked it, although me playing the song in front of all of the family sort of set a trap for myself -- we spent the next five hours listening to a lot of Latin music that the family wanted me to learn.  Actually, this was all very good (instead of bad) but during the whole time I was thinking how I ought to be working on homework instead of listening to music.  All in all, it was actually a really great experience and I am glad that I just soaked it all in.

Día 109 | Sábado, el 18 de Abril | 2009

Shawn & Ryan...

Today was a big let down.  Wanted to get a lot more studying and work done that I needed to get done.  My throat felt a little scratchy and I just decided to lay down most of the day.  I have noticed that one of the most overwhelming things about studying abroad is just the absence of time to relax.  Surely the classes we are taking are not as difficult and time-consuming as a lot of the courses we normally take at OU, but the deciding factor here is that we are in a class that never lets out -- we are constantly prodded to get out of our comfort zone to speak Spanish.  Sometimes I feel like simply retreating into my room and hibernating under the covers until June.  

Last night was fun and interesting, though.  Billy probably has about five love interests now, which I find really amusing.  All of the girls are really nice and I think Billy has a really good chance.  We'll see.  Last night we started out by hanging out at this bar called 'She-Bar,' stayed their until all the girls left at 10 (the time of their curfew), met up with Shawn and Ryan at this bar called Tinku, and then later settled down at some live music club where a band was playing a lot of latin and blues music.  It was more of an upscale place (upscale meaning that dinner plates cost $6.00 instead of $3.00) than normal but people didn't seem to mind.  

Ended up going to bed sometime around 1:30 or 2:00AM.  

Tonight was really good after feeling so homesick and static all day.  Ryan and Shawn are some really great guys.  We went to this pizza place nearby our houses called Little Italy Pizzeria.  We got a jumbo pizza (16 slices!) for about fourteen dollars.  Eating dinner and hanging out with Ryan and Shawn made me feel a little better from being so homesick.

Día 108 | Viernes, 17 de Abril | 2009

Guitarra...

Last night was really great.  I went over to my program-mates Nick's family's house for dinner, met his host-mom, his host-aunt, and brother.  They were all really funny people and told me a lot of jokes in Spanish.  One of my favorite jokes was this:

--¿Cómo le entra el agua al coco?
--(How does the water enter the coconut?)

--Poco a poco.
--(Little by little)

The joke is not really that funny in English as it is in Spanish, wholly depending on the rhyming.  Another funny joke Nick's mom told me was:

--¿Qué es más rápido -- la luz o la diarrhoea?
--(What is faster -- light or diarrhea?)

--La diarrhoea porque no siempre puedes prender la luz antes se viene la diarrhoea.
--(Diarrhea because you can't always turn on the light before diarrhea comes.)

It was good to be around Nick's family last night.  They were really comforting and supportive of me, besides being simply hilarious.  Nick is a lucky guy to have such a cool family and I am a little jealous.  My family is really great though but they are not so easily welcoming as Nick's.  

I feel like I cannot really write right now.  I am in the up-stairs lobby of CEDEI, Billy's rap music is playing, and I just can't concentrate.  Billy is excited because he got a Cuencan girl's phone number last night and is working on a date for tonight.  I will probably go along for moral support.  

I'll add pictures from today, Saturday, and Sunday when I get back to CEDEI on Monday.

cheers

Día 107 | Jueves, 16 de Abril | 2009

Calle Luis Cordero...

Here is the street where my school CEDEI (Center of Interamerican Studies) is located.  Every morning, Billy and I walk about 25 minutes to go to school, then a return trip home for lunch, then another walk to CEDEI for afternoon classes, and then we usually take a cab back home at night. 

Things are going pretty good -- school work is heating up and it's midterm time.  School here is generally not as difficult in the States but then again, we have the "constant class" of always being immersed in the Ecuadorean culture.  

Tonight I am going to go over to my program-mate's house to play music and eat dinner.  Should be fun.

Caitlin -- I hope your performance goes well tonight!  I love you.

Día 106 | Miércoles, 15 de Abril | 2009

Panama Hats...

More rain.  It will probably rain a lot more this month.  Classes were boring today.  Not the subject material -- the short stories were great.  Just something about the class was just really boring -- as if we were dragging our legs along in prison shackles.

Later today we will tour the Paja Toquilla Hat store.  This tour will be really cool I think.

I don't really feel like writing today.  

Día 105 | Martes, 14 de Abril | 2009

Masks...

Mientras llega el día
es la novela del primer movimiento por la independencia en la América hispánica.  A través de personajes imaginarios pero posibles, Juan Valdano -- creador de ficciones e investigador de la historia -- penetra en el espíritu y la sensibilidad de una época:  aquella que precedió a 1809, año en el que estalla el proceso libertario del Ecuador.  El punto de partida de la acción novelesca es la preparación de la insurgencia popular de los barrios de Quito y la masacre de los rebeldes el 2 de agosto de 1810.  A su vez, a partir de este hecho se evoca y reconstruye, con agilidad y verismo, la variada vida colonial.  Obra de gran erudición e investigación, esta novela, además de este mérito, tiene el de ser varias novelas a la vea; en efecto, es histórica por el tema, de aventuras por el enredo de su trama, de personajes por la creación de caracteres y de ambiente por la recreación vívida de una ciudad ya perdida.  La novela inquiere en las causas que desencadenaron la revolución quiteña de agosto de 1809, en tanto que en la conciencia del personaje central revive la discordia, existente hasta ahora, entre lo europeo y lo indígena -- la atormentada germinación de lo mestizo, de la nueva historia y de la nueva cultura.

Construída con la precisión y armoniosa disponsición de una catedral y con los leitmotivs recurrentes de una sinfonía, esta novela guarda una estructura compleja y deliberada:  cada capítulo parece corresponder a uno de los nueve días inmediatamente anteriores a la tragedia; cada jornada es el descanso a un nuevo círculo del infierno - hasta completar los nueve del Dante -- cada obsesión de los personajes (como aquella de las columnas slomónicas de la fachada de la Compañia de Jesús, en Quito) es una cala en el temperamento, pero también es un eslabón en la estructura.  Ejemplo de novela redonda y en donde cada elemento encuentra su razón de ser, nada queda suelto.  Obra cerrada y autárquica que, como en toda obra de arte, se retroalimenta a sí misma.  

This is summary for a book titled Mientras llega el día by Juan Valdano.  The book is about three hundred and sixty pages and I need to read for my South American Literature class.  I am excited about the book but also a little discouraged -- I will need to read at least 15 pages per day (for the next four weeks) in order to be finished on time.  The language is advanced, so 15 pages then becomes a lot of effort on account of translation.  I am thinking I will test it out and see how it goes.  Should be a lot of work.

Today was good -- still cloudy and rainy.  Andean Literature class was enticing as always and we talked about many of the aspects of indigenous families and how the native community is governed.

Ryan, Shawn and I are about to go out for a walk (I'll bring my camera along) and I'll either post a picture later tonight or tomorrow.

Día 104 | Lunes, el 13 de Abril | 2009

Rainy Day in Cuenca...

Today was pretty tiring.  Last night, I could not sleep although the trip was really exhausting.  I only had one class in the morning (South American Literature) and it was so so.  There is much to be said about a classroom dynamic when working in a foreign language setting.  I think the situation lends itself to a lot of waves of doubt and insecurity -- asserting one's opinion can be daunting enough but this can be two or three-fold when it is in a language other than your mother tongue.  People just get plain frustrated and I don't blame them.  I think it takes a lot of focus and patience to accept that fact that when you are not speaking in your native language, you are indubitably going to make many many errors.  On top of that aspect of challenge in the classroom, then you can add everything else that students deal with -- acceptance, intelligence, learning, processing, etc. -- and it just forms into a powder-keg of frustrations.  And I think, too, that our situation down here in Ecuador is also special in the fact that we are surrounded by the same five or six people everyday -- adding a little more pressure to find one's own niche.  
Class went O.K. but then the Internet was down.  I am slightly ashamed on how much I depend on the Internet.  This whole blog project is a big part of it.  I am not ashamed however, that the Internet lets me talk on Skype or iChat with people I love.  I was supposed to talk to Caitlin today but the Internet kept on going in and out (mostly out) and we couldn't talk.  It was so frustrating to sit in the computer lab not being able to do anything!  The server was down and I was in tears! Ha.  

But really, it has been a hard day.  I really miss Caitlin again and its wearing on me more.  I think the rainy days here (there have only been a few of them) especially bring out homesickness and sadness.  On the bright side, it is already half-way through April and the time will only fly by even faster.  We have already almost been here for a month (which is hard to believe).  It is strange to think now but I know I will miss this place when I leave, however I can feel how happy I am going to be when I step on good old (north) American soil.

Día 103 | Domingo, el 12 de Abril | 2009

Familia...

It has taken me awhile (two weeks now) to be comfortable with my family.  The trip to Playas I think made me finally feel at home with my host brother, sisters, and parents.  Here is a group portrait of my family.  From left to right:  (squatting) Johanna [my host sister who is 29 years old], (sitting on a chair) Lida [my host mom who is 60 years old], (standing) Oscar [my host dad who is 62 years old], (in cradle) Joaquin [my host nephew who is 2 months old], (standing in blue) Verónica [my host sister who is 25 years old], Paúl [my host brother who is 27 years old], and his wife (in pink) María.  

Today was a long day.  I wasn't able to communicate it but I wish that we had not gone to the beach again.  Because my malaria medicine makes my skin very sensitive to the sun, I just wanted to stay in the shade.  I perceived that my family (specifically my dad) was a little taken aback by me not wanting to swim but it wasn't a big deal.  It was all smiles in the end.

The drive home was a little rough -- everyone was exhausted.  Compounded with the fact that my host dad ran into a pot hole and flattened both tires on the right side of the car, we were stuck in the dark mountains (it was about 7 o'clock) for about a half an hour changing out the tires.  We didn't have sufficient light to change them, so I used the light on my camera (it actually came in really good handy) to shine on the tires so we could see what we were doing.  We didn't get back home until about 9:30 and the trip back ended up taking 8 1/2 hours on account of the flat tires.  What an adventure though!

Día 102 | Sábado, el 11 de Abril | 2009

Joker on the Beach...

Today we got up a little later than normal (8 A.M.) and went out for the day to the beach.  Breakfast consisted of scrambled eggs, fresh fruit juice (tomate del árbol), and bread.  I really enjoyed getting the chance to relax but today re-affirmed to me that I am not a beach person.  I believe that in life there are beach people -- ones who are more prone to belong at the beach or near the ocean all of the time.  While I enjoy swimming or a walk along where the tide rolls onto the sand, I know that I can never be a marine-dweller.  Being in the sun for too long, having to profusely apply sunscreen, getting sand stuck on my body -- all of these grievances do me in by the end.  

There were some really sublime moments of today though -- eating fresh clam ceviche on the beach, going out for swims, and also witnessing some of the unruly political rallies on the beach.  Above is a photo for one of these rallies.  People just dancing and carrying on to support their candidate for the National Assembly.  Very different than American rallies.  People actually seem to have more fun than here.  Here, it's dance first then vote.  I'm not sure if people ever really dance at political rallies in the States.  If they have actually danced, I have not seen them.

Día 101 | Viernes, el 10 de Abril | 2009

Playas...

Today we woke up at about 4:00 A.M for our drive to the coast.  The name of the city we stayed at was Playas (literal English translation is Beaches) and it was about a six hour drive from Cuenca.  The drive was particularly South American in the fact that the roads were really bumpy, swerved through seemingly perilous stretches, and there was fog everywhere.  It was really beautiful (maybe even majestic) to see the sunrise as we were driving through Cajas National Park.  We stopped for a short break after Cajas and then we pressed on.  Going down the mountains was the worst part of the trip -- lots of bends in the road -- and it was practically impossible to get any rest.  Once we got through the mountains it was smooth driving to the coast.  The landscape -- vegetation, architecture, and everything -- seemed to change drastically as we got closer to the beach.  We also drove through the city of Guayaquil (the largest city in Ecuador) for about a half an hour.  After driving through, I now understand why our program prohibits us from visiting Guayaquil by ourselves (without our families or someone with the program).  It just looks run down, tougher, and more prone to crime than Cuenca or even Quito.  Maybe we hadn't been to the right places in Quito,...I don't know...but I was noticeably uneasy while we were driving through.  I don't think that I will ever live in Guayaquil, that is.

We finally got to Playas around noon (we actually hadn't left the house until about 6).  Once we got there, we had a bite for lunch and then we were off.  Immediately, I was struck by the differences of beaches here than in the States or otherwise.  People just seem to be so much more laid back, tolerant, and joyous here than any other beach I've been too.  No one seems to be conscious about their bodies here -- or maybe is that just me being ignorant to subtleties of culture...?  Regardless, I felt so much more at ease at this beach and it was the beach of dreams.  En el mar, la vida es más sabrosa (In the ocean, life is more rich) is what my host dad told me as we were both running for the surf.  I felt great swimming, jumping, and splashing -- as if there was no need to worry about anything at all.  Total relaxation.  We stayed at the beach until sundown, then went back to the hotel to swim in the hotel pool, and then we finally had dinner and went to bed.  It was a strange day -- a lot of new experiences -- but also one that I'll never forget.

Día 100 | Jueves, el 9 de Abril | 2009

Jueves Santo...

Today has been perfect.  I am feeling much better about a lot of things.  I got the chance to talk to Dale, Caitlin and Leslie -- three of my favorite people in the world.

Plus, today is Beans with Garlic's 100-day anniversary.  

Feeling good :)

Día 99 | Miércoles, el 8 de Abril | 2009

Paja toquilla...

It has been mostly rainy today.  There has been only about an hour's break in which it hasn't rained.  There have been a few showers here and there since we have been in Ecuador, but it has been mostly sunny -- so this is a change.  

Today has been kind of discouraging.  It is only two weeks in but being here, the classes, my family -- everything -- is not near what I had expected it to be.  I appreciate my experience so far and I deeply appreciate the opportunity I have to come here, but there are some things that I just cannot accept.  I wish that the classes would be a little smoother and that everyone could be in the right mindset -- not talk in English, incorporate a positive attitude and use positive re-enforcement when working in groups -- but some things just cannot be avoided.  This really frustrates me a good deal when people's attitudes are negative or their perspective is centered on just getting the class over with as to move on to something else.  It seems like such a waste of time and energy (like what's the point??) if we can't all focus on optimizing our time here?  I hope things will get better (and not get worse).

My family and I are going to Las Playas -- beaches just past Guayaquil -- for this weekend.  I am glad that I will get some time away from class and the program and just be able to relax.  It's neat that we are going to be near Guayaquil (largest city population in Ecuador) but I have heard that inside the city of Guayaquil is pretty dangerous.  My family and I won't be going near the city though and I'll be sure to be safe and careful (thanks Dale and everyone else who are looking out for me).

Later:  I just finished watching a demonstration of the paja toquilla process.  Toquilla straws are the raw material that make up "Panama" Hats (even though they are exclusively made in Ecuador) and they are also used to make other accessories (coasters, baskets, small containers, etc.)  The presentation was really interesting -- this group was made up of about 21 women (three were here to present) and they explained the process of harvesting the trees, making the straw, the process of applying color to the straw, the process in which they weave the straw, and then finally the point of sale of the products.  What really blew me away was the intricate patterns on each of the baskets, hats, etc.  I am not sure how well you can make out the details in the picture above, but there are hundreds (if not thousands) of little straws that go into the construction of each item.  Each of the straws are about 1/16 of an inch wide and the weaving is all very tight.  One of the weavers told me that it only takes about 1 day for a weaver to weave a large hat.  Unbelievable!

Día 98 | Martes, el 7 de Abril | 2009

Desfile...

After morning class, I wandered into the downtown area to witness this huge parade.  There were tons of drummers and little kids participating in the parade around the central park (Parque del Calderón).  I coincidentally ran into one of my program directors (Lewis) and we were trying to figure out what it all meant.  It seemed to be some celebration of all the different schools in Cuenca or something -- students carried banners of their school or had on their school uniforms.  All in all, it was interesting to witness the sights and sounds of the parade.

Día 97 | Lunes, el 6 de Abril | 2009

Pato...

I am rightfully sunburned after yesterday's trip to Ingapirca. I totally forgot about putting sunscreen on and my arms and neck got it pretty bad. I put on some cream that helps sunburns (it is not aloe vera but it was less expensive and it still does the job.

Today I find that I am missing Caitlin a whole lot. It is a complete change for me to be here -- we spent almost all of our time together when I was in Ohio. Each day is harder in terms of not being around her and not being a part of her life. It is merely the idea of being with her that I miss the most. Simple things. Walking, eating lunch, joking, cuddling... I wish I could be there to talk or eat lunch with her today. I am very sad. I can't wait to talk to her tomorrow. And...thanks for leaving me comments baby -- I love you so much!

Today in class we learned some Andean concepts -- life cycles, the Andean perception of after life, and then we learned how to count in Kichwa.

Later today we have a ceramics class. I hope that my pot that I made for Caitlin last week is finished, at least I hope that it has been cooked in the kiln.

I'll add a picture either later today or tomorrow.

Día 96 | Domingo, el 5 de Abril | 2009

Ruinas de Ingapirca...

Today we went to the Incan ruins just about an hour and a half's drive from Cuenca.  The name of the site is called Incapirca and its literal translation is "Incan Stone."  The Incans conquered the Cañari Indians around the beginning of the 13th century and the Incans also, as far as I know, were the first imperialists in South America (only later to be superseded by the imperials from Spain, and then they were only to be superseded now by the imperialists from the U.S.A).  The ruins were interesting, but were not significant to me in the respects of considering the conquering of the Cañari people.  Before the Incans had arrived, the Cañari were a society that did not incorporate patriarchy in their life.  The god that they worshipped most was the moon -- a feminine god -- and there was more of an emphasis placed on totality of community, reciprocal offerings, and unconditional love.  In the Cañari nation, there were no notions of inferiority or superiority -- man was merely a part of nature and was not seen as the master or commander of all (later to be asserted by the Incans and Spanish).  

The site was really interesting on archaeological and anthropological levels -- we could touch and imagine the old systems of aqueducts, the soldiers quarters, the market place, the kitchens, the king's quarters, and the sun temple at the top -- but it was a little disconcerting considering the inevitable path of history.  Walking around in Ingapirca, I could not help but think that one day, some people from far away will be walking around American ruins and will talk about its history and significance -- all in a manner that perhaps would be similar to our tour at Ingapirca.

Día 95 | Sábado, el 4 de Abril | 2009


Sala de Sigsig...

Friday night Billy and I went out to canvas the town.  We started out at this place called Wonder Bar.  It's a really quaint little café that serves a variety of drinks, appetizers, and deserts.  It has a really calm ambience -- soft lights, warm drinks, and their walls are adorned with those artsy and old-style posters that used to be French advertisements for vermouth, french cinema, and movie posters that have beautiful women like Marlene Dietrech smiling while smoking cigarettes.  Billy and I met up with Ryan at the bar.  Ryan is a really cool and nice guy who seems to always laugh at my jokes -- even the bad ones.  Ryan is a man of few words -- I haven't heard him talk a whole lot on our trip but that doesn't mean anything bad (no value judgments here) nor does it mean anything good...it just means what it means.  It was a good time to sit back and relax at the Wonder Bar after a somewhat disorienting week.  It seemed like we had made it out, survived the week, and it was a nice release to sit down at a bar and sip orange juice for a couple hours (Billy and Ryan on the other hand were handily tasting some samples of Ecuador's fine breweries).  Later on, some more members of our program coincidentally met up with us -- Emily, Nick, Megan and Jake -- and we sat at the Wonder Bar for some more time.  

Later on we went to this liquor store called Taxi and it was all so strange.  I felt like we were in the middle of a theater set.  People were all gathered around the store drinking and listening to reggaeton -- it all actually reminded me a lot of when I was in Spain back in 2005.  People just sitting outside in their cars, drinking, smoking,....conversing.  After Taxi, we went to this dance club called Zo.  That place was really surreal -- pretty dark place like a cavern with a bunch of flashing neon lights, hordes of dancers, and the heat from everyone dancing made us all sweat.  This was the kind of place that, without all of the people in it, could be pretty functional for brainwashing someone.  Just strap them down in a chair in the middle of the room, pump up the music, turn all the whirring lights on, and just let them go crazy.  After about an hour there, I felt a little crazy myself and I wanted to go.  I didn't want to leave Billy there alone though, so I made sure we left together.  

The night was okay but it wasn't my thing.  Some people just like to lose themselves in a dark dance club full of drunk strangers.  Alcohol, lights, and music pumping through their veins, they abandon consciousness to chase a surreal fantasy.  It is places and times like those that remind me how absurd existence really is -- "can't believe the things we ask for; can't believe the things we need."

Today was really fun.  I got a chance to break away from my program mates and do my own thing.  This week, I met a really cool and nice guy named Judd.  Judd is doing a independent study in South America over Andean music.  In the fall, he'll be attending the University of Illinois to get a master's degree in Ethnomusicology.  When we met, we hit it off and decided to become recording partners.  So Saturday, we both travelled with this band called Cañara (I think that is their name).  Cañara is a seven-person group that plays Andean folk music.  Today, they performed in a little town called Sigsig as a part of a local music festival.  Judd, Lauren (another student at CEDEI), and I all went to hear some music, have some local food, and relax.  The music was very fine and Judd and I both recorded it from the audience.  The picture above is of the auditorium after the show and it shows the room in which the audience sat.  The room itself was pretty problematic in terms of getting good sound.  There was a echo of about 500 ms built into the room -- this caused a good bit of low-end feed back, confusion, and just a general unpleasant 'boxy' sound.  When the band first started out, I felt pretty insecure setting up my sound equipment.  Maybe not insecure as much as conspicuous -- the room was filled with about 200-250 people and they all glared at me as if I was some kind of alien.  I suppose it was a pretty strange sight to see -- some gringo setting up a boom stand and microphone -- and I sat smack dab in the middle of the room with my boom stand raised about 15 feet in the air.  

The recording turned out pretty good though and it was nice to make friends with people from Cuenca.  This Thursday, I am going to go to Cañara's practice.  I'll probably be able to get a better recording of them there -- they won't have an annoying echo in their practice space.

Día 94 | Viernes, el 3 de Abril | 2009

Clase de baile...

On Seven Dudes Dancing:

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times....definitely the winter of despair.

Día 93 | Jueves, el 2 de Abril | 2009

Huerto del CEDEI...

Mmm...strange feeling when the week has seemed to take this long.  Dimensions of time -- a month, a year, ...20 years -- seems to have been compressed into just this one week.  Today was good -- did the usual:  wake up at six, shower, breakfast (oritos [very small bananas] pan [bread], té de fruta [fruit tea] and then off on my 20-25 minute walk to school.  I felt a little discouraged today with some of the challenges of adjusting to life here.  Grammar class is going to be difficult and so is my Andean literature class.  The grammar class is going to be more technical computation than anything -- it's really comparable to a math class.  Formulas of sentence structure, verb tenses, and temporal limits all play into play.  In the end, it is really formulaic.  Literature class is the opposite.  Lots of critical thinking and analysis, the class is not really clear cut.  

Tonight, my family and I are going to eat with the Mayor of Cuenca, Marcelo Cabrera.  One of my host sisters (Verónica) works in the mayor's office and that is why we're all going out to eat with him.  If the feeling is right, I think I might try and find out if I could get special access to any important events (so that I could record some of the sounds) -- I am thinking soccer matches or festivals, rallies, etc.  The election for mayor and president are coming up on April 26, so it's going to be a really busy month for Mayor Cabrera.

Día 92 | Miércoles, el 1 de Abril | 2009

Tomebamba...

In Cuenca, it is about 70 degrees everyday with practically no humidity.  Cuenca lies at about 8,000 ft. above sea level and has a population of about 300,000.  Picture a city that is about 2 miles above Athens!  The air here is thin and it is sometimes difficult to breath after walking up a staircase.  

Today was pretty great.  The weather was nice and it was perfect to walk to class and back.  

Last night was really surreal.  Billy and I went to see Rafael Correa speak.  Correa is the current President of Ecaudor and he is up for re-election on April 26.  At first, Billy and I were unable to enter the Coliseum where Correa was to speak.  The police had guarded off the gates and wouldn't allow anyone to have further admission.  After we found this out, Billy and I were a little bummed out, so we just stood outside the Coliseum in order to hear Correa's speech.  A group of about 40 people, however, seemed to organize among themselves and decided to storm the gate.  All of a sudden, Billy and I could hear slamming on the metal gates, shouting and a the sound of a whole lot of commotion.  We looked over at the gates and noticed that the swarm of people appeared to be dissolving into the Coliseum like sand dissolving into the bottom of an hour glass.  Realizing that this could be our chance, Billy and I jogged over and joined the mob that was rushing the gates.  Billy and I lost ourselves for a moment -- we could see each other about 10 feet away in the mob -- because we had no control over the 40 people or so that were moving as one giant mass.  As we passed through the gates, I noticed the policemen who had guarded the gates and I'll never forget the look on their face.  On their face was the look of concession, a retreat, and ultimately an understanding that they just could not stand up to the crowd.

Quite different than in the U.S.